Trip Report – Sicily
In the hopes that all our winter training would mean that we would have sufficient stamina to hold a glass of beer after a climbing session, our focus fell on Sicily as a sun-rock destination.
Who?
The same team of five low-grade climbers operating in the fours, fives and sixes that went to Slovenia and Kalymnos in 2015 (links to those reports here and here).
Where?
We booked accommodation in the tourist resort of San Vito lo Capo in the north-west of the island. It is a small town of approximately 4000 inhabitants with a beautiful beach of white sand, plenty of bars and restaurants,a couple of ATMs, lots of independent butchers, bakers, fishmongers, etc., and one supermarket.
Accommodation?
We stayed in town and used a hire car to get around. There's a great deal of property available to rent although it wasn't easy to find somewhere that would accommodate five blokes who had no intention of sharing beds! We eventually booked a property whose agents were Sicily for Everybody which we found on a European holiday lettings site called Wimdu. All dealings with both organisations were trouble-free.
When?
One week in the middle of May 2016.
Travel?
There were no suitable flights available in the north of England so we had to travel to that there London and then onwards to Gatwick. The time of the inbound flights was such that we needed an overnight near Gatwick and we chose the Travelodge. Recently refurbished, it proved to be ideal for the short time we were in the area.
What did we do?
Although new crags are being developed further inland, and although the long, multi-pitch routes on Monte Monaco, normally visible from our accommodation, were alluring, we concentrated our climbing efforts on the sea-side crags that stretch in a four kilometre sweep between San Vito and the El Bahira campsite.
What was the weather like?
We climbed every day for as long as we wanted to. Some days started overcast, with the summit of Monte Monaco wreathed in low cloud. On some days there was quite a stiff wind, which one local identified as the Sirocco. Irrespective of how the morning started, by lunchtime the sun would be out and the day would warm up, reaching mid to high twenties Celsius. We were then grateful for any passing clouds and the cooling breeze.
Some friends had spent over a week there from the end of March to the beginning of April and lost only one day to rain.
Additional information
Guidebook
Sicily-Rock 5th edition (Jan 2016) ISBN 978-3-938680-32-2 available from many places in the UK, including here.
Climbing
If you've got a route or grade you particularly want to tackle, don't leave it too late. If it's getting on for mid-day, the sun will be shining directly into your eyes as you're trying to work out where the route goes; later in the afternoon the rock will be hot and you'll be sweating – you'll need a chalk bag as big as your rucksac!
Eating Out
In San Vito there were lots of restaurants of all types, from pizzerias and burger bars to fine (expensive!) dining. We dined out at a different establishment every evening and never had a bad meal. Be warned, however, if you go 'off-menu': the proprietor might tempt you with word of freshly caught, succulent tuna steaks (or similar) which s/he will cook simply and which will be the most delicious tuna steaks (or similar) you have ever tasted. And the proprietor will be correct in every respect – truly, unforgettably, delicious...
...but you might need to visit the ATM sooner than you had anticipated!
Car Hire
Experienced car hirers will not be surprised to read that hire companies in Sicily are extremely good at finding tiny blemishes on alloy wheels that weren't there when the car was picked up. In this respect it is inconceivable that Italy Car Rent are unique. Photograph everything!
San Vito or Kalymnos?
Regular readers of these trip reports (ha!) will know that our last venture was to Kalymnos. How do the two compare?
At San Vito access to crags was easy, with most walk-ins only five or ten minutes from the car. We were all impressed by the number and quality of the routes and the quality of bolting. One of the main differences between San Vito and Kalymnos seems to be the nature of the rock. In Kalymnos there’s a lot of climbing on slabs and small edges putting a lot of pressure on the feet. In San Vito you noticed after the first route that upper arms and upper body were being used more to deal with the steeper nature of the rock. The rock seemed to lend itself to more features and friction was invariably good. Who could ask for more?!
We've only included a few pics here but you'll find more on our facebook page.
Copyright 2012 Dave Hume and Mike Blood. If you are affected by any of the issues in this publication, contact your nearest climbing therapist.